There are some journeys that stay with you long after you return home, and my recent voyage with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions through Scotland’s wild isles will certainly be one of them.
This was not simply a cruise. It was a wonderfully immersive expedition through some of the most dramatic, remote and fascinating parts of Scotland, combining exceptional organisation, genuine comfort, expert guiding and a real sense of discovery. For anyone who loves beautiful scenery, wildlife, history and the ease of seeing extraordinary places without sacrificing comfort, this is a journey I would wholeheartedly recommend.
Gilly Bachelor x
A Smooth and Civilised Start
The voyage began in Edinburgh, where we gathered at the hotel and enjoyed a relaxed start before transferring to Rosyth for embarkation. It all felt very seamless and well considered, which I always appreciate. There is something reassuring about a journey that feels smooth from the outset.
From Rosyth, we stepped on board and experienced that wonderful sailaway moment when the shoreline slips away and the adventure suddenly begins to feel very real. It set the tone beautifully for the week ahead.
Life on Board
I stayed in a Category 4 cabin on the Lounge Deck, cabin 610, and I was genuinely impressed. It was spacious, beautifully appointed and extremely comfortable. There was a sitting area with a sofa, a writing desk, plenty of storage and a sleek modern bathroom with a rain shower and wonderfully fluffy bathrobes.
One of the real highlights was the private balcony, complete with chairs, a small table and even a hammock, which quickly became one of my favourite places to sit quietly and watch the scenery drift by.
There were also some lovely touches that made the cabin feel especially considered, from the National Geographic atlas and wall-mounted digital tablet to the insulated water bottle, the cosy National Geographic jacket and the ship’s wider emphasis on avoiding single-use plastics.
For solo travellers, there is also a very appealing Category B Solo option on the Lounge Deck, which I think is worth highlighting. It offers a balcony and sofa and provides a very comfortable arrangement for anyone travelling independently.
The ship as a whole struck exactly the right balance for me. It was comfortable and elegant, but never overly formal. Everything felt geared towards making the most of the destinations.
Day 1: Orkney, History and Dramatic Landscapes
The first full day ashore gave a wonderful sense of the variety this expedition offers.
In Orkney, I experienced two very different excursions. The first was a guided walk through Kirkwall, a town shaped by Viking heritage and strong Norwegian influence. We visited St Magnus Cathedral, one of Scotland’s best-preserved cathedrals, as well as the Earl’s Palace and Bishop’s Palace. It was a fascinating introduction to Orkney’s history and character.
The second was the Marwick Head hike, which offered an entirely different side of the islands. Here the focus shifted from town and heritage to cliffs, birdlife and the raw beauty of the coastline. With its seabird colonies and striking views, it was a wonderful reminder of how wild and varied these islands are.
That contrast really set the tone for the whole voyage. One moment you are immersed in centuries of history, and the next you are out in the sea air, surrounded by cliffs, birds and open skies.
Day 2: Mull Head and my First Zodiac Landing
The second day began beautifully, with an early sauna and jacuzzi followed by breakfast on board before heading ashore for the Mull Head hike in lovely weather.
Mull Head, at the furthest point of Deerness, is one of Mainland Orkney’s most spectacular coastal walks, with sweeping clifftop views, birdlife and that wonderful sense of space and stillness that makes this kind of travel so restorative. It was a glorious morning and a very special way to begin the day.
Later came my first zodiac landing, complete with a wet landing, as we visited Mousa Broch in Shetland. This was one of the real highlights of the voyage for me. Reaching the island by zodiac made the whole experience feel even more adventurous and helped bring home just how remote and atmospheric the setting is.
Mousa Broch is extraordinary. Thought to date from around 300 BC, it is the tallest broch still standing and one of the best-preserved prehistoric buildings in Europe. Standing there beside this ancient tower, with the sea around us, was incredibly evocative. It was exactly the sort of experience expedition travel does so well: not just seeing a place, but really feeling it.
Day 3: Discovering Unst
One of the great pleasures of the voyage was visiting places that many travellers never reach, and Unst was a perfect example.
Our coach tour included the Unst Heritage Centre, Unst Boat Haven, Norwick Beach and several Viking sites. Unst is Shetland’s northernmost island, and it has a remarkable sense of identity. It is rich in Viking history, maritime heritage and crofting tradition, and I found it fascinating.
The Heritage Centre offered insight into local life through displays on crofting, fishing, geology and traditional skills such as spinning and fine lace knitting. Unst Boat Haven was equally interesting, with its collection of traditional fishing and sailing boats helping to tell the story of island life and the importance of the sea.
It was a quieter day of discovery, but one that I enjoyed immensely.
Day 4: The Shiant Islands and Inverewe
Another memorable day began with an impromptu zodiac cruise around the Shiant Islands, made possible by perfect sea and weather conditions. These are the moments that remind you what expedition travel is all about. Plans can flex when conditions allow, and that flexibility can lead to some of the most magical experiences.
We spent around an hour and a half in the zodiacs circling the islands, taking in the rich wildlife, the seabird colonies and the astonishingly clear water. We saw puffins and seals, and being so close to the cliffs and birdlife from the water was a real privilege.
Later, we continued to Inverewe (in Western Ross in the Scottish Highlands), where the mood shifted completely. After the wildness of the morning, the gardens offered a calmer but no less beautiful experience. Inverewe is a remarkable place, created on a remote stretch of Highland coastline where unusual species thrive thanks to the effects of the Gulf Stream.
Walking through the gardens, it was easy to appreciate why this stop is included. It was inspiring, surprising and deeply beautiful, and it showed yet another side of Scotland.
Day 5: Talisker Bay on Skye
This morning brought yet another reminder of how special this voyage has been, as we arrived at Talisker Bay on the Isle of Skye, a beautiful and remote spot on the island’s west coast known for its black sand beach, sea stacks and dramatic Atlantic-facing cliffs.
We headed out for an early kayak, and the conditions could not have been better. The sea was completely calm and glassy, the sun was shining, and the whole bay felt peaceful and still, which I am told is quite a rarity in this part of the world. It was a wonderful way to experience Skye from the water and to appreciate the quiet beauty of this rugged coastline.
National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions describes this stage of the voyage as an expedition day along Skye’s coast, exploring the inlets and villages for which the island is so well known, and that felt exactly right. It was another fantastic included excursion aboard National Geographic Endurance and a very memorable start to our time in Skye.
The next stage of the expedition took me to Rathlin Island in Northern Ireland, home to its largest puffin colony and thousands of other seabirds including guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars. With dramatic cliffs, panoramic sea views and the remarkable “upside down lighthouse” at Rathlin West Light.
What Makes this Voyage so Special
What impressed me most about this National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions voyage was the combination of access, knowledge and comfort.
You are taken to places that would be difficult, or certainly far less rewarding, to piece together independently. You benefit from an expert team, thoughtfully planned excursions and the flexibility that true expedition travel allows. Yet at the same time, you return to a beautifully comfortable ship, a well-appointed cabin, excellent food and the reassurance that everything has been arranged for you.
For many of my clients, especially couples who want something enriching and memorable without it feeling arduous, that balance is exactly what they are looking for. This is adventurous travel, certainly, but it is not uncomfortable travel. You can be out on a clifftop path in the morning, visiting a prehistoric site by zodiac in the afternoon, and back on board later enjoying teatime, cocktail hour and dinner.
It is a very lovely way to travel.
Would I Recommend It?
Without hesitation, yes!
I would particularly recommend this voyage to travellers who want to experience Scotland from a different perspective. If you enjoy heritage, wildlife, beautiful landscapes and expertly guided experiences, and you appreciate the ease of unpacking once while remote islands and dramatic coastlines come to you, this itinerary is hard to fault.
It would suit well-travelled couples especially well, particularly those looking for something more distinctive than a conventional cruise but who still expect comfort, quality and careful organisation throughout. It is also a strong option for solo travellers, thanks to the solo cabin category and the naturally sociable feel of expedition travel.
For me, this has been one of those journeys that feels both restorative and stimulating. I have seen beautiful places, learnt a great deal and enjoyed the simple pleasure of travelling well.
If Scotland’s wild isles have ever appealed to you, this is a very special way to experience them. I still have a little more of the journey to enjoy, so stay tuned to hear about the last couple of days of my expedition!
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