Last year, my husband and I sailed the Danube aboard Riviera Radiance, discovering some of Central Europe’s most stunning cities — and it was truly unforgettable. In this article, I share the highlights of the journey, along with tips and insights for anyone considering a river cruise.
– Gillyx
Day One: Esztergom – A Historical Introduction
After flying straight into Budapest, we boarded Riviera Radiance and began our journey with a visit to Esztergom, one of Hungary’s most historically significant towns. Once the seat of Hungarian kings and still the ecclesiastical centre of the country, Esztergom’s position on the Danube has made it strategically and culturally important for centuries.
The highlight is undoubtedly Esztergom Basilica — the largest church in Hungary and one of the largest basilicas in Europe. Built in the 19th century on a site with over a thousand years of church history, the scale inside is breathtaking. Enormous columns, richly decorated chapels, and the largest altarpiece painted on a single canvas in the world create an awe-inspiring atmosphere. From the dome, the views across the Danube and into Slovakia are spectacular.
Starting our cruise with Esztergom was a wonderful introduction to Hungarian history and culture, and we saved Budapest itself for the end — three full days to explore the capital properly.
River Cruising Insight:
One of the things I love most about river cruising is docking right in the city centre. You can join organised tours or simply wander off at your own pace — perfect for those who love flexibility. However, be aware that cabins are compact. Ours on the Diamond Deck measured approximately 16 square metres — thoughtfully designed but cosy. The largest cabins available are around 32 square metres, so don’t expect the expansive space of luxury ocean cruise ships.
Day Two: Bratislava – Compact and Characterful
Bratislava is one of those cities that really suits river cruising — compact, characterful, and easy to explore with plenty packed into a small area.
We visited Bratislava Castle, sitting high above the Danube with fantastic views over the city (and across to Austria on clear days), before heading down into the Old Town. Cobbled streets, pastel buildings, cosy cafés, and at that time of year, not one but two Christmas markets, each with its own feel. Festive stalls, mulled wine, local food, and that lovely buzz you only get in historic city centres at Christmas.
What You’ll Love: Unpacking once and enjoying a string of city breaks. Each day brought a new destination, but you returned to the same cabin, the same bed, and a familiar ship. It was relaxed, efficient, and wonderfully civilised.
What You Need to Know: In popular cities, you may experience “rafting” — where ships moor side by side, meaning you walk through another ship to reach your own. We did this in Budapest. Two things to consider: mobility (it often means stairs, gangways, and uneven surfaces) and your cabin view (which may be another ship rather than the scenic river). On a previous cruise on the Rhône, there was a gentleman on the ship alongside ours enjoying his morning routine with curtains wide open and very little clothing on. Memorable — not for scenic reasons!
Day Three: Melk – Abbey Splendour and Snowy Streets
On the morning of day three we docked in Melk, and I instantly loved the town — quaint streets, little independent shops, cosy coffee houses, all made magical by light flurries of snow. It felt properly Christmassy.
We skipped the organised excursion and walked to Melk Abbey independently — something I’m really loving about river cruising. Docking right in the heart means easy independent exploration (though most guests choose the excellent included excursions).
Melk Abbey itself is breathtaking. Founded in 1089, its Baroque church shimmers with frescoes and gold leaf, all painstakingly restored during a 40-year refurbishment completed in 2018. Photos aren’t allowed inside, but trust me — it’s stunning.
What You’ll Love: If you’re worried about seasickness, it’s really not an issue — the sailing is incredibly smooth.
What You Need to Know: You might be surprised by engine noise and vibration in your cabin. We were shook awake on our first night, and we were on the top deck at the very back (where the engines are!). However, we were heading upstream from Budapest to Linz at the time, so the engine were working harder — downstream is much smoother. Lower deck cabins would feel this more.
Day Four: Christmas Day in Linz – Unexpected Magic
We woke on Christmas morning docked in Linz, with sunshine and a dusting of snow. One of the things I really appreciated about this cruise was the freedom of choice each day.
From Linz, guests could explore locally or take a day trip to Salzburg. We chose to stay in Linz, and on Christmas Day it felt exactly right. Linz is very walkable, and I’d recommend seeing the New Cathedral. But our most memorable moment came somewhere much smaller.
We wandered into the Ursuline Catholic Church (Ursulinenkirche), a beautiful 18th-century Baroque church. We ended up staying for the Christmas Day service, and it was genuinely magical. The organ filling the church, choir singing, candlelight flickering, locals quietly gathering — authentic, emotional, and incredibly moving. One of those unexpected travel moments you could never plan.
Back on board, the day took on a festive feel. The ship was beautifully decorated, and the crew created a proper Christmas atmosphere. We enjoyed a Christmas gala dinner with all the trimmings (with an Austrian twist!), a visit from Santa, and an evening of music and dancing.
What You’ll Love: Unexpected, meaningful moments like a Christmas service in a local church.
What You Need to Know: Water levels matter on river cruises. The Danube is currently low, and while we were lucky enough to sail the full itinerary, that isn’t always guaranteed. Lower levels can mean more engine noise and vibration — and yes, at 1:30am we hit the riverbed with a definite thud! Part of the reality of river cruising in certain conditions.
Day Five: Boxing Day in Vienna – Culture and Elegance
Boxing Day greeted us with perfect winter weather — bright, crisp and cold, making Vienna feel especially beautiful.
Unlike most cities on this trip, Vienna was one where the ship moors just outside the city, so we joined the organised coach excursion followed by a guided walking tour — and honestly, we really enjoyed it. Vienna benefits from context, and having a guide brought its history, architecture, and culture to life.
The city felt bustling and full of energy. While many shops were closed for the holiday, the Christmas market was still open and incredibly busy. We also stopped for authentic Viennese coffee and apple strudel — delicious!
In the afternoon, there was an optional excursion to Schönbrunn Palace, the former summer residence of the Habsburg emperors. With over 1,400 rooms, it’s one of Austria’s most important Baroque landmarks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Vienna deserves more time. I’d absolutely recommend it as a longer city break — there’s so much to see: Schönbrunn Palace, Hofburg Palace, St Stephen’s Cathedral, Belvedere Palace (home to Klimt’s The Kiss), Vienna State Opera, Spanish Riding School, and famous coffee houses.
Back on board, we enjoyed our second gala dinner, followed by a performance from a string quartet — elegant, atmospheric, and the perfect match for such a musical city, closing with Vienna’s unofficial anthem, The Blue Danube.
What You’ll Love (or Maybe Not): River cruising is VERY social. At most meals, you’re joined by other guests, and conversations flow across tables. There are lots of solo travellers, and the environment makes it easy to feel included. For those who enjoy meeting new people and a sociable atmosphere, you’ll love this aspect. We sailed with UK-based company, Riviera, so guests are predominantly British. On a previous cruise with Avalon on the Rhône, most guests were American. But on both trips, we’ve met truly lovely people.
Day Six: A Sailing Day – Unexpected Rest
Day six was a sailing day as we made our way back from Vienna to Budapest — around 250km along the Danube. Originally, we were due to arrive in Budapest in time for 10am tours, but low water levels meant a much slower sail, pushing excursions back to 3:30pm.
We joined the two-hour afternoon coach and walking excursion from the ship, heading up to the Castle District before crossing to Pest to see the Parliament Building, Opera House, and market. Timing couldn’t have been better — sunset fading into dark skies meant Budapest’s Christmas illuminations were at their absolute best, and they really were something special.
While most guests hopped back on the coach, we chose to walk back to the ship, soaking it all in a little longer.
Important Note: This is one thing to be mindful of with river cruising — the itinerary is never set in stone, so you’ll need to be flexible!
Honestly, the delays came with a silver lining — very welcome lie-ins. The trip had been fairly exhausting with late nights (entirely our own doing!) and early mornings essential if you want to make the most of tours, especially when you’re often leaving cities by lunchtime.
Days Seven & Eight: Budapest – A Grand Finale
We disembarked Riviera Radiance after our 7 night cruise and while most guests had booked Riviera’s cruise-and-flight package, just nine of us made our own onward arrangements. Given our delayed arrival due to low water levels, I’m so glad we planned two full extra days here — this is something I’ll definitely recommend to my clients!
Exploring Pest
On our final morning we left the ship at 10am and made the most of our first full day exploring the Pest side of the city, clocking up an impressive 10-mile walk. Staying right by St Stephen’s Basilica meant everything was walkable, and we explored Andrássy Avenue, the Opera House, Heroes’ Square, and the river promenade. One highlight was the beautiful outdoor ice-skating rink by Heroes’ Square, buzzing with activity and adding to the festive atmosphere. Pest is flat and easy to explore on foot.
We stayed at the Aria Hotel Budapest, and it’s honestly one of the loveliest hotels we’ve ever stayed in. This luxury, music-themed boutique hotel felt calm and indulgent — and after our cosy cabin on Riviera Radiance, moving into a suite with a huge bed, freestanding bath, a lounge with a fireplace, and a vast marble shower room felt incredibly special.
Our stay included complimentary wine and cheese between 4–6pm with a live pianist, and we found an incredible Hungarian restaurant — Retek — where we enjoyed warm hospitality and delicious traditional dishes.
Discovering Buda
On our final full day, we walked around 6 miles, starting with a visit to the magnificent Hungarian Parliament. From there, we walked along the Danube riverbank back towards the Chain Bridge, pausing at the deeply moving Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial — a quiet and powerful reminder of the city’s history.
We crossed the Chain Bridge into Buda, where we explored Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion, Matthias Church, and the cobbled streets of the Castle District. While the distance was shorter than yesterday (there are LOTS of steps), the reward for our efforts were the truly breathtaking views back across the river towards Pest.
There were Christmas markets on both sides of the Danube (continuing into the New Year!), but we were right by the largest one outside St Stephen’s Basilica, and they were best I’ve seen. Beautiful gifts and decorations, incredible food, and plenty of warming cups of forralt bor (Hungarian mulled wine) — festive, atmospheric, and the perfect way to end our time here.
Final Thoughts
Christmas on the Danube was everything I hoped it would be — festive, cultural, social, and completely different from any Christmas we’ve had before. From the history of Esztergom and the charm of Bratislava, to the Baroque splendour of Melk, the unexpected magic of Christmas Day in Linz, the elegance of Vienna, and the unforgettable finale in Budapest, every day brought something special.
River cruising suited us perfectly — the ease of unpacking once, docking in city centres, the flexibility to explore independently or join excellent included excursions, and the social atmosphere of meeting fellow travellers.
Yes, there are practicalities to be aware of — compact cabins, engine noise, rafting, water levels affecting schedules — but none of these detracted from the overall experience. In fact, they’re simply part of the authentic reality of river cruising, and knowing about them upfront helps you embrace them rather than be surprised.
Would I recommend a Christmas river cruise on the Danube? Absolutely. It’s perfect if you love atmosphere, lights, music, markets, history, and culture — and if you’re happy to swap tradition for experience.
Budapest was an unforgettable finale, and while most guests headed home the day after, I’m so glad we planned those extra days. This beautiful city deserved every moment.
Would I go away for Christmas again? Hmm… find out my answer here…
If you’re considering going away for Christmas this year, get in touch with us for any advice or support you might need. Give us a call on 01902 288104, send us a message, or book an appointment. We would love to help you plan the perfect festive getaway!
